Craftsman 3-Panel Horizontal

1-3/8″ Thick – Interior Door

Learn More About This Door

CRAFTSMAN 3-PANEL HORIZONTAL, Interior Door, 1-3/8″ Thick

Our Craftsman doors (also called “Shaker” or “Arts & Crafts” doors), consist of a stile and rail frame with simple square “sticking” (corner edges) and flat panels. This type of door is often found in Craftsman or “Bungalow” style homes, widely popular in the early 1900s.

This 1-3/8” thick 3-panel (3-11 pattern) Craftsman-style door is made in the U.S.A. at our northern Colorado factory. Our 1-3/8” thick doors are for Interior applications only—not for use as Exterior or “entry” doors. Our Knotty Alder lumber is sourced from responsibly managed forests in the western U.S.

Key elements of this door include:

Warranty

An industry-leading Warranty is provided for this door, including one-year limited coverage on unfinished (raw) doors, and five-year limited coverage on factory pre-finished doors. Please note that this extended warranty applies only to the construction of the door, and not the factory pre-finish itself.

Engineered Stiles and Rails

Stiles and rails are the vertical and horizontal “frame” components, respectively, of the door. Our stiles and rails are engineered to resist bowing and warping. We use industry-leading 1/8” thick veneers, with superior quality TimberStrand® Laminated Strand Lumber (LSL) core material.

Solid Panels

Panels are the large, wider boards that fill the space between the stiles and rails. Our panels are solid wood (1/2” thick on this door)—much higher quality than pressboard panels with thin veneers, or hollow core panels found on lower quality imports. Panels are manufactured with small width boards, edge glued to create the larger width panel. Individual boards are random widths, glued in alternating grain patterns to balance the panel and reduce the natural tendency of the wood to warp or cup.

Bore and Dowel Construction

Our doors are assembled with bore and dowel construction. We use industry-leading 1/2” diameter dowels. Stiles and rails are bored, glued and then doweled for optimum strength and stability. Panels fit into grooves in the stile and rail components, and “float” on rubber spacers to allow for minor expansion and shrinking of the wood with the natural moisture and environmental changes of the home.

Panel and Sticking Profile

This Craftsman door features a square sticking profile and a flat panel profile as shown below. “Sticking” is the decorative trim wood placed between the stiles and rails and the panels of the door.

Profile: 1-3/8” Craftsman
Profile: 1-3/8” Craftsman
Engineered Component, with LSL Core (1-3/8” Thick Doors)
Engineered Component, with LSL Core (1-3/8” Thick Doors)
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Learn About Single, Double Doors

Door units, without pre-hanging, are also called “slabs.” We sell our Knotty Alder doors as single doors or in pairs (double doors). Double doors are two/each of the single doors. For example, if you order a double door in our Square Top Rail style, the door will be two of the single doors positioned side by side.

Double Door, 2-Panel Square Top Rail, 1-3/8” Thick
Double Door, 2-Panel Square Top Rail, 1-3/8” Thick

For the Top Rail Arch style doors (in both raised panel and plank styles), double doors have the normal Top Rail Arch on each of the doors in the pair, as shown below.

Double Door, 2-Panel Top Rail Arch, 1-3/8” Thick
Double Door, 2-Panel Top Rail Arch, 1-3/8” Thick

If you choose to purchase a pre-hung double door, the entire double door is framed with a double door jamb. In this case, you’ll choose one of doors as “active,” with a working handle or lockset. The other door of the pair is inactive (still opens and closes, but with no working knob or handle), and includes a “T-Astragal” attached to the door edge for latching the active door. A flush bolt (top flush bolt only) is included to secure the inactive door in the closed position. A variety of handing and swing choices are available with pre-hanging (see “Handing and Swing” options).

In addition to normal “swinging” doors, we can pre-hang your double doors in either “Ball Catch” or “Bypass” configurations. These options are often used for double closet doors. These choices are available with pre-hanging, under the “Select Handing and Swing” options.

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How Do I Measure Width & Height?

The first step in measuring the width and height of your new door is to measure the rough opening where the door will be placed. Rough opening means the opening of the stud wall structure prior to installing the door frame (door jamb). The process for determining the door width and height needed for your rough opening is as follows:

  1. Measure the width of the rough opening, from inside of wall stud to inside of wall stud (see the illustration below for this measurement). Measure this in three places—top of the opening, middle of the opening, and bottom of the opening—and then use the smallest of these three measurements. Then, subtract 2” from this width. This equals your needed door width. Example: Rough opening measurement = 32”. Door width needed = 30”, or 2’ 6” (32” – 2” = 30”, or 2’ 6”).
  2. Measure the height of the rough opening, from the floor to the bottom of the upper stud of the opening (see the illustration below for this measurement). Measure the height on both corner edges of the opening, and then use the smallest of these two measurements. Then, subtract 3” from this height. This equals your needed door height. Example: Rough opening height = 83”. Door height needed = 80”, or 6’ 8” (83” – 3” = 80”, or 6’ 8”).

If you are framing the rough opening for a new door (i.e., constructing the wall stud frame), just reverse the measurements above (select your desired finished door width and add 2” to this measurement, then select your desired door finish height and add 3” to this measurement).

Rough Opening
Rough Opening

Why does the opening need to be larger than the door and its jamb? First, the additional space provides room to adjust the door and jamb to the rough opening. The stud wall structures of rough openings are not always plumb and square, so providing extra space allows the installer to “shim” the jamb for a perfectly plumb, level, and square door installation. Second, the additional height allows space for flooring material above the sub-floor such as carpeting, wood, or tile. Last, walls may expand and contract slightly with the natural humidity and moisture changes that occur with changing seasons. So, the extra space allows for minor adjustments to your door fit, as necessary.

Pre-Hanging (Optional)

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Learn About Pre-Hanging

A pre-hung door consists of a door hung on hinges and assembled in a wood frame with a door stop (the frame is also called the door “jamb”). A pre-hung door is ready to install in the door opening, with no on-site assembly required. This reduces construction time and scheduling, lowering project cost. If the pre-hung door is also pre-finished, this further reduces steps and cost in the construction process.

Pre-Hung Interior Door

Pre-Hung Interior Door

Pre-Hung Interior Door

In addition to manufacturing the highest quality door slabs, we also offer optional pre-hanging of the doors. Factory pre-hanging ensures that hinge pockets are mortised square and precise, and that hinges are always flush on the door and frame. Hinges are included in the price of pre-hanging and are available in a selection of color choices. Boring and latch/dead bolt mortising are also provided at no additional cost with factory pre-hanging. A choice of single or double bore options are available in different “backset” positions (the placement of the handle or lockset from the door edge). Factory pre-hanging also ensures that the “reveal” (the small gap between the door and the jamb, when the door is closed) is always correct.

Pre-Hung Interior Door, Single Bore (Optional)
Pre-Hung Door, Single Bore (Optional)
Pre-Hung Interior Door, Flat Jamb
Pre-Hung Door, Flat Jamb with Stop
Pre-Hung Interior Door, Flat Jamb
Pre-Hung Door

To learn about our pre-hanging options and choices, click the links below:

Jamb Species

 
If optional pre-hanging is selected, we offer solid Knotty Alder wood jambs—much higher quality than “finger-joint” jambs made of scrap lumber joined together in multiple places.

Jamb Types

 
Our door jambs are flat jambs with an adjustable stop. Our jambs have eased (rounded) edges on the facing side of the jamb. If we also pre-finish the door, the jambs and stop are finished separately (matching the door Stain or Stain/Glaze color), allowing for on-site adjustment of the stop without finish touch-up.

Knotty Alder, Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop
Solid Knotty Alder Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop
Knotty Alder Flat Jamb, Edge View
Solid Knotty Alder Flat Jamb, Edge View

We also offer kerfed flat jambs, in solid Knotty Alder. Kerfed flat jambs are slotted on the edge for wrapping the drywall corner bead (rounded or square drywall corners) into the jamb. Kerfed flat jambs provide for a clean opening, with drywall connecting directly to the door fame, and no case mouldings.

Knotty Alder, Bull-Nosed Kerfed Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop
Solid Knotty Alder Kerfed Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop
Kerfed Flat Jamb, Edge View
Solid Knotty Alder Kerfed Flat Jamb, Edge View

Available Hinge Colors

 
Door hinges are square corner 3.5” hinges. Nine different hinge colors are available, at no additional cost.

Flat Black Hinge
Flat Black
Antique Brass Hinge
Antique Brass
Bright Brass Hinge
Bright Brass
Dull Brass Hinge
Dull Brass
Oil Rubbed Bronze Hinge
Oil Rubbed Bronze
Bright Chrome Hinge
Bright Chrome
Dull Chrome Hinge
Dull Chrome
Antique Nickel Hinge
Antique Nickel
Satin Nickel Hinge
Satin Nickel

Jamb Widths

 
Flat (non-kerfed) door jambs are available in the following widths, to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses:

Solid Knotty Alder, Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Flat Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 4-5/8” Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 4-7/8” Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 6-5/8” Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 6-7/8” Wide

Kerfed flat jambs are available in the following widths, to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses (Note: Kerfed flat jambs are more narrow than regular flat jambs, to allow for wrapping the drywall corner bead into the jamb):

Solid Knotty Alder, Bull-Nosed Kerfed Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Flat Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 3-1/2” Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 3-1/2” Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 5-1/2” Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 5-1/2” Wide

Handing and Swing

 
Handing and Swing refers to the side of the door that is hinged, and the way the door swings inside or outside of the room. Consider the way you would like your door to open when making this choice.

A simple way to understand handing is to stand in the doorway with your back against the jamb of the door where you want the hinges to be placed. From this position, if you want the door to open to your left, it is a left-hand door. From this position, if you want the door to open to your right, it is a right-hand door.

Next, determine if you want the door to swing inside or outside the room. Inside is an “inswing” door, and outside is an “outswing” door. Review the illustrations below to identify the way you would like your door to be handed and swing (Note: These illustrations apply to single doors).

Left-Hand Inswing Illustration
Left-Hand Inswing
Right-Hand Inswing Illustration
Right-Hand Inswing
Left-Hand Outswing Illustration
Left-Hand Outswing (sometimes called Right-Hand Reverse)
Right-Hand Outswing Illustration
Right-Hand Outswing (sometimes called Left-Hand Reverse)

For double doors, one door is designated as “active” (operating knob or handle to open the door), and the other door is designated as “inactive” (still opens and closes, but no working knob or handle). The inactive door includes an attached “T-astragal” with flush bolt (top flush bolt only) to secure the door in the closed position. Review the illustrations below to select which side of your double door you would like active, and its handing and swing (inside or outside of the room).

Double Left-Hand Inswing Illustration
Double Left-Hand Active, Inswing
Double Right-Hand Inswing Illustration
Double Right-Hand Active, Inswing
Double Left-hand Outswing Illustration
Double Left-Hand Active, Outswing (sometimes called Right-Hand Reverse)
Double Right-Hand Outswing Illustration
Double Right-Hand Active, Outswing (sometimes called Left-Hand Reverse)

In addition to these handing and swing options, we also offer double doors with a “Ball Catch” or a “Bypass” configuration. These double door options are most frequently used on closet door applications. For example, Ball Catches are typically used with “dummy” (non-active) handle sets, on outswing closet doors. Ball Catch hardware is included at no additional charge on double Ball Catch doors, and track hardware is provided at no additional charge on double Bypass doors. We do not bore for the dummy handle sets on these options. Review the illustrations below to select one of these double door applications.

Double Ball Catch Illustration
Double Ball Catch
Double Bypass Illustration
Double Bypass

Bore Position (for Hardware)

 
When you order a pre-hung door, we can bore your new door for a handle or lockset, at no extra charge. We offer both single bore and double bore options. Our bores include mortising the edge of the door for the latch (latch and dead bolt for double bore) and mortising the “strike” on the jamb leg (where the latch inserts, or latch and deadbolt for double bore).

The first bore is always 36” from the bottom of the door, and the bore hole diameter is always 2-1/8”. For double bore options, the distance between the two bore holes is always 5-1/2” center to center (from the center of the diameter of one bore to the center of the diameter of the other bore). If these bore positions and dimensions do not match your desired hardware, please contact us to order custom specifications. Alternatively, you may select the “No Bore” option, and have your new door bored for hardware by your installer.

Available Backsets

 
Available “backsets” (the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore diameter) are:

2-3/8”
2-3/4”

Review the following illustrations to select the bore and backset you desire for your new door.

Single Bore Backset Options and Specifications

Single Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Single Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Single Bore, Latch Mortis
Single Bore, Latch Mortise
Single Bore, 2-3/4” Backset
Single Bore, 2-3/4” Backset

Double Bore Backset Options and Specifications

Double Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Double Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Double Bore, Latch Mortis
Double Bore, Latch Mortise
Double Bore, 2-3/4” Backset
Double Bore, 2-3/4” Backset

Crating and Shipping Pre-Hung Doors

 
All orders are shipped direct to the home or jobsite in sturdy crating. Single door units are shipped pre-hung (as applicable), ready to install. Pre-hung double doors are shipped “Knocked Down” (or KD) and must be re-assembled prior to installation. Freight and crate charges are calculated based upon volume (door count) and are assessed at the time of check out.

Crating and Shipping Pre-hung Doors

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Learn About Jamb Species, Types

Jamb Species

We offer solid Knotty Alder wood jambs.

Jamb Types

Our door jambs are flat jambs with an adjustable stop. We also offer kerfed flat jambs with an adjustable stop (at an extra charge). Kerfed flat jambs are slotted on the edge for wrapping the drywall corner bead (rounded or square drywall corners) into the jamb. Kerfed flat jambs provide for a clean opening, with drywall connecting directly to the door frame, and no case mouldings. Our jambs have eased (rounded) edges on the facing side of the jamb.

Knotty Alder, Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop
Knotty Alder, Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop
Knotty Alder, Bull-Nosed Kerfed Flat Jamb w/Adjustable Stop
Knotty Alder, Kerfed Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop
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How Do I Measure Jamb Width?

To choose the proper jamb width for your pre-hung door, you must determine the thickness of the wall where your door will be placed. Wall thickness includes the wall stud plus the sheetrock thickness. Normally, either 2×4 or 2×6 studs are used for wall framing. Sheetrock is usually either 1/2” thick or 5/8” thick. Determine your wall stud and sheetrock thickness and then use the charts below to select the proper jamb width to match your application.

Jamb Widths

Flat door jambs, with attached adjustable stop, are available in the following widths, to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses:

Solid Knotty Alder Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Flat Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 4-5/8” Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 4-7/8” Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 6-5/8” Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 6-7/8” Wide

Kerfed flat jambs, with attached adjustable stop, are available in the following widths, to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses (Note: Kerfed flat jambs are more narrow than regular flat jambs, to allow for wrapping the drywall corner bead into the jamb):

Solid Knotty Alder Kerfed Flat Jamb with Adjustable Stop

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Flat Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 3-1/2” Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 3-1/2” Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2” Sheetrock 5-1/2” Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8” Sheetrock 5-1/2” Wide
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How Do I Choose Door Handing and Swing?

Handing and Swing refers to the side of the door that is hinged, and the way the door swings inside or outside of the room. Consider the way you would like your door to open when making this choice.

A simple way to understand handing is to stand in the doorway with your back against the jamb of the door where you want the hinges to be placed. From this position, if you want the door to open to your left, it is a left-hand door. From this position, if you want the door to open to your right, it is a right-hand door.

Next, determine if you want the door to swing inside or outside the room. Inside is an “inswing” door, and outside is an “outswing” door. Review the illustrations below to identify the way you would like your door to be handed and swing (Note: These illustrations apply to single doors).

Left-Hand Inswing Illustration
Left-Hand Inswing
Right-Hand Inswing Illustration
Right-Hand Inswing
Left-Hand Outswing Illustration
Left-Hand Outswing (sometimes called Right-Hand Reverse)
Right-Hand Outswing Illustration
Right-Hand Outswing (sometimes called Left-Hand Reverse)

For double doors, one door is designated as “active” (with an operating knob or handle to open the door), and the other door is designated as “inactive” (still opens and closes, but no working knob or handle). The inactive door includes a “T-Astragal” attached to the door edge for stopping and latching the active door. A flush bolt is also included at the top of the inactive door to secure it in the closed position. Review the illustrations below to select which side of your double door you would like active, and its handing and swing (inside or outside of the room).

Double Left-Hand Inswing Illustration
Double Left-Hand Active, Inswing
Double Right-Hand Inswing Illustration
Double Right-Hand Active, Inswing
Double Left-hand Outswing Illustration
Double Left-Hand Active, Outswing (sometimes called Right-Hand Reverse)
Double Right-Hand Outswing Illustration
Double Right-Hand Active, Outswing (sometimes called Left-Hand Reverse)

In addition to these handing and swing options, we also offer double doors with a “Ball Catch” or a “Bypass” configuration. These double door options are most frequently used on closet door applications. For example, Ball Catches are typically used with “dummy” (non-active) handle sets, on outswing closet doors. Ball Catch hardware is included at no additional charge on double Ball Catch doors, and track hardware is provided at no additional charge on double Bypass doors. We do not bore for the dummy handle sets on these options. Review the illustrations below to select one of these double door applications.

Double Ball Catch Illustration
Double Ball Catch, Outswing
Double Bypass Illustration
Double Bypass
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How Do I Choose the Right Bore Position? 

When you order a pre-hung door, we can bore your new door for a handle or lockset at no extra charge (see Pre-Hanging to learn more). Our standard bore options and dimensions are documented in this help section.

The bore position for your new door depends upon the type and function of the hardware (knob or handle) you desire to use on the door. Consult your hardware supplier for their recommendations.

We offer both single bore and double bore options (for dead bolt hardware). Our bores include mortising the edge of the door for the latch (latch and dead bolt for double bore), and mortising for the “strike plate” on the jamb leg where the latch inserts (or latch and deadbolt for double bore).

The knob or handle bore is 36” from the bottom of the door to the center of the bore hole, and the bore hole is 2-1/8” in diameter. For double bore options, the distance between the two bore holes is always 5-1/2” center to center (from the center of the diameter of the knob or handle bore to the center of the diameter of the dead bolt bore).

Available Backsets

Available “backsets” (the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore diameter) are:

2-3/8”
2-3/4”

Review the following illustrations to select the bore and backset you desire for your new door.

Single Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Single Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Single Bore, Latch Mortis
Single Bore, Latch Mortise
Single Bore, 2-3/4” Backset
Single Bore, 2-3/4” Backset
Double Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Double Bore, 2-3/8” Backset
Double Bore, Latch Mortis
Double Bore, Latch Mortise
Double Bore, 2-3/4” Backset
Double Bore, 2-3/4” Backset

If these bore positions and dimensions do not match your desired hardware, please contact us to order custom specifications. Alternatively, you may select the “No Bore” option, and have your new door bored for hardware by your installer.

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Learn About Hinges

Factory pre-hanging ensures that hinge pockets are mortised square and precise, and that hinges are always flush on the door and frame.

3.5” square-corner hinges are included in the price of pre-hanging. Nine different hinge colors are available, at no additional cost.

Flat Black Hinge
Flat Black
Antique Brass Hinge
Antique Brass
Bright Brass Hinge
Bright Brass
Dull Brass Hinge
Dull Brass
Oil Rubbed Bronze Hinge
Oil Rubbed Bronze
Bright Chrome Hinge
Bright Chrome
Dull Chrome Hinge
Dull Chrome
Antique Nickel Hinge
Antique Nickel
Satin Nickel Hinge
Satin Nickel
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Learn About Pre-Finishing

Factory pre-finishing is a hallmark of our company. Our pre-finishing experience began over 30 years ago, and our finishes are renowned in the door industry. We offer the highest quality factory-applied stains, glazes, and topcoats—available in 29 color options. Our pre-finishes are “fine furniture” quality, providing much higher quality and lower cost than on-site painting. And our pre-finished products are ready to install, further adding value by reducing time and scheduling in the construction process. The advantages of our factory pre-finishing include:

  • A minimum of 30 minutes per door hand-sanding—ensuring grain closure and perfect preparation prior to finishing
  • Top quality catalyzed conversion varnish systems (similar to high-end pre-finished cabinets and fine furniture)
  • Proprietary stain formulas created specifically for our manufacturing environment and applied using HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) and air-assisted spray guns—ensuring even tones with no blotchiness
  • A “clean room,” dust-free environment not achievable on the jobsite—preventing small dust and dirt particles from settling on the product before drying
  • Six-sided coating on doors, providing moisture seal on all sides, preventing warping, and increasing our door Warranty from one year to five years

Step-by-Step Process

Our step-by-step pre-finishing process includes:

  • Sanding preparation. A minimum of 30 minutes per door, starting with heavier 150 grain sandpaper and working down to finer 180 grain sandpaper. This ensures grain closure, required for a furniture quality finish.
  • Stain coat. Using our proprietary, solvent-based stains.
  • Seal coat. Using top quality catalyzed conversion varnish to seal and protect the stained wood.
  • Seal sand. Additional sanding to smooth the sealed surface and prepare for final topcoat.
  • Glaze (completed on Glaze color options only). Hand-wiped, solvent-based glaze to beautifully shadow profiles and edges.
  • Topcoat. Provides the final finish coat of the wood, again using top quality catalyzed conversion varnish.

Pre-Finished Jambs (Pre-Hung Doors)

If you select pre-hanging for your door, the jamb will be pre-finished matching the pre-finish color you select for your door. The jambs and stop are finished separately, providing for on-site adjustment of the stop without finish touch-up.

Color Options

Twenty-nine color options are available, shown here in the following palettes:

Stain Illustrations
Stain Illustration
Stain Illustrations
Stain Illustration

Glazing beautifully shadows the profiles and edges of the door.

Glaze Illustrations
Glaze Illustration
Glaze Illustrations
Glaze Illustration

Please note that pre-finish colors illustrated on computer screens may not exactly match the actual pre-finished colors of the doors. We assume no liability for such color discrepancies and encourage buyers to request color samples to ensure satisfaction.

Alder with Clear Coat Finish
Clear Coat (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Primed Finish
Primed

Light Stains & Glazes

Alder with Yampa River Glaze
Yampa River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Poudre River Glaze
Poudre River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Golden Horn Glaze
Golden Horn Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Snake River Glaze
Snake River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Rio Grande River Glaze
Rio Grande River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Slate River Glaze
Slate River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Caramel Stain
Caramel Stain (Satin Sheen)

Dark Stains & Glazes

Alder with Fall River Glaze
Fall River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Hope Mountain Glaze
Hope Mountain Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Longs Peak Glaze
Longs Peak Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Mocha Stain
Mocha Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Eagle River Glaze
Eagle River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Cajun Stain
Cajun Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Espresso Stain
Espresso Stain (Satin Sheen)

Red Stains & Glazes

Alder with Honey Stain
Honey Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Cinnamon Stain
Cinnamon Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Animas River Glaze
Animas River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Roan Creek Glaze
Roan Creek Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Maroon Peak Glaze
Maroon Peak Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Redcliff Mountain Glaze
Redcliff Mountain Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Copper Stain
Copper Stain (Satin Sheen)

Gray Stains & Glazes

Alder with Grays Peak Glaze
Grays Peak Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Blue River Glaze
Blue River Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Glacier Point Glaze
Glacier Point Glaze (Matte Sheen)
Alder with Winter Rye Stain
Winter Rye Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Fig Stain
Fig Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Blackcurrant Stain
Blackcurrant Stain (Satin Sheen)
Alder with Dyer Mountain Glaze
Dyer Mountain Glaze (Matte Sheen)

Pre-finish colors illustrated on computer screens may not exactly match the actual pre-finished colors of the doors.

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